The Jean Paul Gaultier show during couture week in Paris is always a highlight, drawing a diverse crowd of fashion enthusiasts. Since Jean Paul Gaultier’s retirement in 2020, the brand has featured a rotating cast of guest designers, each bringing their unique vision to the runway. For the fall/winter 2024 show, Nicolas Di Felice, the artistic director of Courrèges, was chosen to lead the collection.
Di Felice’s takeover of Jean Paul Gaultier showcased his signature style of sexy minimalism, with sharp silhouettes and subtle sensuality. The runway was transformed into a stark white space with a narrow catwalk, creating an intimate atmosphere for the audience. The collection featured draped trench coat dresses, leather ensembles, and slinky column dresses, all exuding a modern and edgy vibe.
One of the standout pieces from the collection was a sheer nude wedding gown-style dress adorned with thousands of hook and eye closures, creating a mesmerizing effect. Another highlight was a chainmail dress with intricate hook and eye embellishments, showcasing Di Felice’s attention to detail and craftsmanship.
While Jean Paul Gaultier has been known for its commitment to diversity in fashion, Di Felice’s choice of mostly thin models for his shows at Courrèges raised questions about inclusivity. In future collections, it is hoped that Di Felice will expand on the ethos of diversity and celebrate different body types on the runway.
Drawing inspiration from the archives of Jean Paul Gaultier, Di Felice incorporated elements of the designer’s past collections into his own vision of radical minimalism. The lingerie-inspired pieces and clever embellishments paid homage to Gaultier’s iconic style, while adding a modern twist.
Overall, Di Felice’s collaboration with Jean Paul Gaultier was a successful fusion of both designers’ aesthetics, appealing to fans of both brands. The collection was a testament to Di Felice’s talent and creativity, and left the audience eagerly anticipating his future projects in the world of high fashion.