In the new limited series The Penguin, a spin-off of The Batman, Cristin Milioti plays the role of Sofia Falcone, a mobster in a power struggle with the villain Oz Cobb, played by Colin Farrell. The show is gritty, emotional, and filled with great fashion thanks to costume designer Helen Huang, who incorporated vintage pieces from Courrèges, Prada, Lanvin, Dries Van Noten, and Vivienne Westwood. Stepping into the world of The Batman was exciting for Huang, who found inspiration in the emotional quality of the film directed by Matt Reeves. The narrative of The Penguin explores themes of institutions failing communities and crime as a form of upward mobility.
When it came to costuming The Penguin, Huang aimed for a timeless look that blurred the lines between eras. She paid attention to every detail of the characters’ silhouettes, drawing inspiration from street photographers who captured vulnerable moments in New York City. Costuming a television series like The Penguin is similar to costuming a film, with no lower standard for TV productions in the era of “prestige TV.” Sofia Falcone’s character was dressed in a feminine yet powerful way, drawing inspiration from 1960s silhouettes and photographers like Peter Lindbergh.
Most of Sofia’s wardrobe in The Penguin is vintage, sourced from various stores and online platforms. The character’s evolution throughout the series is reflected in her changing clothing choices, from Prada and Lanvin to Vivienne Westwood and Dries Van Noten. The challenge of sourcing vintage pieces lies in finding multiples for backup, especially for scenes with stunts or bloodwork. Building additional pieces on top of vintage items allowed for flexibility in filming.
One memorable moment during the costuming process was when Colin Farrell requested a balaclava for a table read to fully embody his character of Oz Cobb. His commitment to the role demonstrated the dedication of the cast and crew to bringing The Penguin to life on screen. Costumes play a significant role in shaping the viewer’s perception of a series, and Huang’s attention to detail in sourcing vintage pieces and creating unique looks for each character adds depth to the storytelling in The Penguin.
