Proper nourishment is a nonnegotiable for stronger, more fortified hair, which is why determining your porosity level—low, medium, or high—is key. Once you know which essentials actually work best for your specific needs, it is simple to upgrade your entire hair care routine. For more tips on determining your unique level and product suggestions for each, we asked professionals about everything you need to know about hair porosity.
Hair porosity—how porous your hair is—refers to your hair’s ability to absorb and retain moisture, and is not specific to its texture. “All individuals of any ethnicity and hair type have a porosity level and some even have a mixture of porosity,” hairstylist Deanna Brown, known as the Curl Doula, tells Bazaar. Ultimately, porosity determines the types of products that are most beneficial to hair’s overall health, along with the essentials most effective for achieving a desired look. There are three basic levels of hair porosity: low, medium, and high.
Low-porosity hair typically doesn’t allow moisture in or out of the shaft easily, due to tightly packed openings in the cuticle. This porosity level also indicates that hair cuticles take longer to absorb and repel water than others. Brown notes that this level often gets a bad reputation for attracting build-up, as it takes low-porosity types a little extra elbow grease to achieve a thorough cleanse. Medium to “normal” porosity is especially ideal in hair, as these types of cuticles tend to be a Goldilocks fit between tight and loose, seamlessly allowing moisture to enter and exit. Since this porosity type accepts and retains moisture easily without quickly losing it, the maintenance process includes less guesswork overall. High-porosity hair quickly absorbs moisture but loses it just as fast, thanks to its loose cuticle structure; they open easily and do not close as tightly as cuticles with lower porosity levels. According to Brown, when this type is unmanaged, hair can become extremely dehydrated, as well as prone to breakage and tangles.
There are several methods you can use at home to determine your hair’s porosity. For one, Novobielski suggests testing the old tried-and-true “glass of water” trick: “You can put a strand of hair in a glass of water. If it sinks quickly, it probably has high porosity. If it floats or takes longer to sink, it has medium to low porosity.” Brown agrees, adding that the test is best conducted on clean, product-free strands of hair. “Products will give you false results. Naked hair will be in its most authentic form, so you can truly see where your hair’s health is,” she notes.
In the same ways porosity can be altered based on hair habits and chosen product rotation, it can also shift with the addition of suitable treatments and products. To help you get a head start on an effective routine, Brown and Novobielski weigh in ahead with some helpful tips and suggestions for each porosity level.
For low-porosity hair, Brown recommends starting with a gentle shampoo that doesn’t contain harsh surfactants. “Anything harsh will raise the cuticle and cause more problems for your low-porosity hair,” she says. Look for ingredients that will give hair great slip when styling, so that the hair doesn’t break easily. The expert also explains that it’s helpful to keep an eye out for ingredients that cleanse and hydrate the hair simultaneously. And once clean, make sure to sop up as much excess moisture as possible with a friction-free hair towel to help styling products absorb more effectively into your cuticles.
As previously mentioned, a long-standing goal for healthy hair is to achieve a medium or “normal” hair porosity level in each area of your scalp. Using a gentle, hydrating shampoo to remove product buildup, incorporating regular deep conditioning treatments into your routine, and protecting hair as you sleep with a silk or satin bonnet are key steps in helping to maintain this level of porosity. Aveda Be Curly Advanced Shampoo, Innersense Beauty Clarity Hairbath, and Pattern by Tracee Ellis Ross Leave-In Conditioner are some products recommended for a Medium to “Normal” Porosity Routine.
To replenish moisture loss and repair the damage often present in high-porosity types, professionals say using a richly hydrating leave-in treatment each day is a must. Incorporate more emollient ingredients like hair oils, butters, and fatty alcohols, which are better suited for this porosity level for longer lasting softness and hydration. Deep conditioning your hair as often as possible can also help mitigate potential or additional breakage. Plus, prioritizing healthy hair habits before bed can be game-changing for high-porosity levels. Experts suggest sleeping with a silk or satin pillowcase at night to guard against cuticles opening as a result of excess friction as you sleep, which later releases moisture.
It is essential to understand your hair’s porosity level to tailor your hair care routine to meet its specific needs. By following the tips and recommendations provided by experts, you can achieve healthier, more vibrant hair that reflects your unique porosity level. Remember, consistency is key in maintaining the health and beauty of your hair.
