Opus: The Stunning Symphony of Cult Fashion
Celebrities have always been viewed as trendsetters, icons with a magnetic appeal that draws us in, leaving us in awe of their style and influence. But what if these well-dressed celebrities were more than just fashion icons? What if they were, in fact, modern-day cult leaders, using their clothing choices to exert power and instill meaning in those around them? This intriguing concept lies at the heart of Opus, the latest horror masterpiece from A24 that delves into the surreal and gory world of celebrity cults.
The film centers around Ariel, a young journalist portrayed by the talented Ayo Edebiri, who receives a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to interview Moretti, an enigmatic pop legend played by the incomparable John Malkovich. As Ariel delves deeper into Moretti’s world, she discovers a bizarre and unsettling environment at his Utah compound. The staff, clad in identical denim attire, never allow Ariel a moment of solitude, and Moretti himself dons extravagant stage costumes that rival even the most daring looks of Lady Gaga.
Costume designer Shirley Kurata, known for her work on Everything, Everywhere, All at Once, played a pivotal role in bringing the fashion-forward vision of Opus to life on the screen. In an exclusive interview, Kurata shared insights into the inspiration behind Moretti’s flamboyant wardrobe, drawing from music icons like David Bowie, Liberace, Elton John, Prince, Michael Jackson, and Brian Eno. Each costume was carefully crafted to capture Moretti’s showmanship and love for embellishment, creating a visual spectacle that truly mesmerizes.
The Power of Denim: Crafting Cult Uniforms
One striking aspect of the film is the use of denim and indigo as the uniform for the Levelists, the inhabitants of Moretti’s compound. Kurata explains that denim’s universal appeal and the intricate art of indigo dyeing symbolize the dedication and craftmanship of the Levelists. Drawing inspiration from Japanese indigo dyeing traditions, Kurata meticulously curated a wardrobe that reflected the Levelists’ unwavering commitment to their leader, Moretti.
After the journalists at Moretti’s compound undergo a transformative wardrobe makeover, swapping practical attire for glamorous ensembles, Kurata reveals the significance behind this sartorial shift. Moretti, the ultimate peacock, believed in dressing his entourage in extravagant looks befitting his performances and events. From Ariel’s stunning Prada dress to Juliette Lewis in Rodarte, each outfit was carefully selected to elevate the characters’ presence and complement Moretti’s larger-than-life persona.
Behind the Seams: The Art of Costume Design
As Kurata delves deeper into the intricate process of creating Moretti’s elaborate costumes, she sheds light on the challenges and triumphs of bringing the character to life. From hand-sewn embellishments to custom tailoring, each costume required meticulous attention to detail and experimentation to capture Moretti’s essence as a cult leader. Despite the complexities involved, Kurata’s expertise and creativity shone through in every dazzling ensemble.
Reflecting on the filming process, Kurata recalls the logistical hurdles of dressing hundreds of background actors in varying shades of indigo, a task that tested her eye for color coordination and aesthetic harmony. As winter weather posed its own challenges on set, with snowfall and freezing temperatures necessitating layers of warming gear, Kurata’s ability to adapt and problem-solve ensured a seamless production.
In the world of Opus, where fashion serves as a tool of power and expression, Kurata’s masterful costume designs stand out as a testament to the transformative nature of clothing. Through her artistry, she has brought to life a captivating narrative that blurs the lines between reality and fantasy, leaving audiences spellbound by the allure of cult fashion.
As the credits roll on Opus, one thing remains clear: fashion is not merely a form of self-expression—it is a language of its own, speaking volumes about identity, creativity, and the enigmatic allure of cult leaders like Moretti. In the realm of cinema, where storytelling is woven through every fabric and stitch, Kurata’s visionary designs leave an indelible mark, inviting us to explore the limitless possibilities of fashion as a narrative force.
This interview with Shirley Kurata has been edited and condensed for clarity, offering a glimpse into the creative process and vision behind Opus’s mesmerizing blend of horror, fashion, and cult intrigue. Through her insights and expertise, Kurata has illuminated the transformative power of costume design, underscoring its role as a vital component of storytelling in the world of cinema.
