Simon Cracker Challenges Luxury Fashion System with Independent Brand
The independent Italian fashion brand Simon Cracker shook up the luxury fashion scene by debuting an upcycled collection during Milan Fashion Week. Designers Simone Botte and Filippo Biraghi presented coed looks created from recovered and deadstock garments, materials, and accessories, making a bold statement against what they perceive as the waning quality and creativity in the industry.
Defying Fashion Norms
The collection showcased during Milan Fashion Week playfully mocked the Milanese signora, or “sciura,” with funky tweed separates, a foulard, and even a tiny dog, challenging conventional standards. Each silhouette was meticulously crafted from garments sourced from dry cleaners and other unconventional outlets, adding a touch of uniqueness to the collection.
Critique of Wealth and Luxury
Co-creative director Filippo Biraghi expressed delight at the timing of Walmart’s release of a Birkin knockoff, aligning with the brand’s satirical take on the luxury sector. Biraghi emphasized that the brand aimed to shed light on the disconnect between price and value in today’s fashion landscape, where consumers are inundated with excess and lack of genuine creativity.
The collection’s closure, featuring a garment cloaked in luxury tags from Biraghi’s personal wardrobe, served as a poignant commentary on the superficiality of wealth and status symbolization prevalent in the industry.
Industry Slowdown and Call for Reform
Simon Cracker’s runway critique of the luxury sector comes at a time when industry analysts point to a significant slowdown and the need for reform. Studies by McKinsey consultancy and The Business of Fashion revealed a marked deceleration in growth, primarily driven by price hikes rather than true innovation.
Bain consultancy’s forecast of a 2% contraction in 2025, the first since the Great Recession, underscores the crisis in creativity and the impact of global instability on the fashion market. Botte and Biraghi echoed these sentiments, emphasizing the importance of storytelling and creativity in garments, rather than contributing to excess consumption.
In a show of solidarity, Italian singer Chiara Galiazzo praised Simon Cracker for fostering a sense of community through its authentic and unconventional approach to fashion. Galiazzo’s words resonate with the brand’s mission to create a space where individuals feel connected and engaged beyond mere consumerism.
