Thom Browne is a designer who seems to enjoy playing by the rules, only to break them in the most creative ways. His collections often draw inspiration from traditional and structured environments, such as the Catholic mass or a midcentury office setting. As Paris gears up for the Olympics, Thom Browne, the designer with his own football league, decided to blend sports with high fashion in a unique way. While he wasn’t the only designer on the couture calendar to take inspiration from the Games (Dior also presented a different interpretation), Browne’s show stood out.
With tennis legend Serena Williams seated in the front row, Browne showcased his second-ever couture collection. The show opened with a striking visual of models in white blazers, sunglasses, and kilts, connected by a tug-of-war rope. The color palette of cream and neutrals prevailed throughout the collection, using muslin in unexpected ways and elevating it to a couture level. The collection featured gilded headpieces, intricate 3-D flowers, and embroidery that highlighted musculature akin to the iconic Bodies exhibition from the early 2000s.
Browne’s fusion of avant-garde and athletic elements was evident in the footwear, which offered a deconstructed take on classic cleats. The ancient Greek origins of the Olympics influenced the designs, with motifs of discus throwers and laurel wreaths making an appearance. The finale paid homage to the upcoming Games with looks in bronze, silver, and gold, almost like a preview of a medal ceremony for 2024.
Overall, Browne’s couture show was a masterful blend of sports and high fashion, pushing the boundaries of what couture can be. The intricate details, unexpected materials, and creative themes all came together to create a memorable and visually stunning collection that captivated the audience. With Thom Browne, it’s clear that when it comes to fashion, rules are meant to be broken in the most spectacular way possible.