Paris Fashion Week is a whirlwind of designer debuts and iconic collections that set the tone for the fashion industry. This year showcased the highly anticipated collections of newcomers like Haider Ackermann for Tom Ford, Sarah Burton for Givenchy, and Julian Klausner for Dries Van Noten. Alongside these fresh faces, fashion stalwarts like Dior, Rick Owens, and Isabel Marant held their ground, presenting collections that stayed true to their signature aesthetics.
Julian Klausner for Dries Van Noten: A Promising Debut
Klausner, who previously worked under Dries Van Noten for six years, took the reins after the brand’s founder announced his retirement. The show space at Palais Garnier, a tunnel-like room in the ninth arrondissement, was chosen by Klausner as an homage to his love for performance and theater. The collection reflected the brand’s identity with rich jewel tones, crystal embellishments, and clashing brocades. Klausner’s challenge was to maintain the brand’s DNA while infusing his own spin, achieved through innovative color and texture combinations and shifted silhouettes. The use of reappropriated materials like shoelaces and curtain tassels added a whimsical touch to the collection, showcasing Klausner’s dedication to craft and creativity.
Rick Owens: Back to Basics with a Twist
Rick Owens, known for his avant-garde creations, drew inspiration from his factory in Italy and the industrial town of Concordia for his Fall 2025 show. The collection featured long skirts with high slits, jackets, and coats made from unique materials like pirarucu skin and British mélange wool felt. Owens’ return to basics was a nod to his roots and a departure from his usual extravagant designs. The show, accompanied by the punk track “Mass Production,” resonated with Owens’ loyal followers and fashion enthusiasts alike, highlighting his ability to reinvent his signature style while staying true to his brand’s ethos.
Chloé: Embracing Plurality and Femininity
At Chloé, designer Chemena Kamali explored the complexity of women’s lives, blending opulence with simplicity to create a collection that celebrates the multifaceted nature of femininity. Kamali’s designs, inspired by the Chloé woman’s dualities, featured floor-length quilted jackets, lacy gowns, and silk slips in soft, romantic hues. The collection exuded a bohemian charm with a modern twist, appealing to women who value comfort and elegance. Kamali’s ability to reinterpret Chloé’s heritage while infusing her own vision into the brand’s aesthetic showcased her talent and understanding of the modern woman’s wardrobe needs.
The Row, known for its luxurious and understated designs, surprised audiences with a runway show that featured models walking barefoot in thick stockings. The unconventional styling choices, including plush wool leggings draped over tailored coats and micro bags tucked under arms, added a playful element to the brand’s sophisticated aesthetic. The Row’s focus on quality materials, impeccable tailoring, and unique styling details highlighted their commitment to redefining luxury in fashion.
Paris Fashion Week 2021 was a celebration of creativity, innovation, and tradition in the fashion industry. From established designers staying true to their roots to newcomers making their mark, the runway shows offered a glimpse into the evolving landscape of fashion. As the industry continues to push boundaries and challenge norms, Paris Fashion Week remains a beacon of inspiration and artistry for designers and fashion enthusiasts around the world.
